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Restaurants that don't take reservations have to be really exceptional for me to go to the trouble... it's supremely aggravating. But even more annoying is the rush of some Parisian (or New York) places. The pleasure of eating out is the food and the conversation, the relaxing, the social aspect. I don't care how good that steak was, Tom, gobbling it, being rushed by the waiters, being acutely aware that "you are holding a table, move your ass" kills the evening for me. I remember going out with a friend in Paris a long time ago. We had a ton of catching up to do... after a while it became a game with the waiter. He tried to entice us to leave and we kept talking and talking. You know what? He gave up. We stayed till they started to wrap up... great evening. Funny, I can't remember the food at all!

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Haha, I like playing that game too Martine! I agree with you - this is fun when you know what you're getting into, but I'm glad it isn't every dining experience!

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Omg, that strawberry concoction looks sooo good. 🤤

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It was as good as it looks Holly, SO sweet!

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God i love Paris

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Wouldn't change it for the world!

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Hysterical. Places that don't take reservations are the pits...but at least it gives us a chance to be smug in lines, right?? 🤣

I'll do you one better (worse?) than L'Entrecôte, though: there is a very popular brunch restaurant in DC that used to be extremely good, but because of how popular it's become, the food quality has taken a nosedive and the staff have gotten a bit big for their britches. A couple years ago, I made a weekend reservation at said restaurant as I had some friends in town. When we showed up on time for our reservation, I was matter-of-factly told that we would have to WAIT ONE HOUR for our table. And the hostess had zero remorse! She acted like what she'd just said was totally reasonable! Based on how much that conversation raised my blood pressure, I probably should have seen a doctor.

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God that is an absolute scandal!! I almost consciously avoid arguments of any kind but even I would have had to get scrappy about that!

It feels like there's a sweet spot between a place like that getting discovered as great and when they get like that.

Did you wait the hour?!

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Ugh yes, I'm ashamed to say we waited the hour as there weren't many other options around...but I made my displeasure known, lol. And I agree, there is a tipping point where a lot of great restaurants get too popular and the service really takes a hit as they try to meet the new demand. I have so much respect for places that are able to maintain their original standard once they're "discovered"!

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I also would have waited so no judgment here! But yes, I would have been very British about the whole thing and given withering looks to the hostess whenever she passed.

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Such a fun trip down memory lane…I loved Le Relais de l’Entrecote, although I still haven’t figured out why they give you two servings of steak instead of one larger one! Our table was on the sidewalk, in full view of the queue…so if the servers didn’t make us feel rushed, the fifty pairs of ravenous eyes surely did. But it was somehow a treat to go to a restaurant where your only decision is red or white!

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Thanks so much Jodi! I agree!! I want all of the steak on my plate! Wow, I'm glad I wasn't outside, I can imagine you really felt rushed! But yes, I actually quite liked not worrying about whether I'd made the right choice or not and just putting it in their hands.

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Loved this! One more restaurant added to the list. I don’t really appreciate you giving me reasons to visit Paris again, you know. I hate it! But this sounds so lovely and delicious that I might just have to go and try it. Darn you, Tom!

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Thanks Andrei! Haha it really is worth going for a very fun if slightly chaotic time! I have good news for you if you really don't want to go to Paris - they also have Le Relais de l'Entrecote in London!

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Feb 20Liked by Tom Fish

What was in the strawberry tower? Was it a stack of doughnuts? It looks so good!

The most popular cafe in our little market town doesn't take bookings. The queues from 11am-2pm are always insane (two queues - one for takeaway, one for sit-down). The food is worth waiting for, but in summer you can be queuing for over an hour on the street, and this is a tiny Georgian-era town with narrow pavements... I hadn't considered the no booking thing as an egalitarian move, it makes sense in France - in the UK it's just annoying!

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I actually agree with you here Sian that I generally find it annoying - it's also annoying for those not going to the restaurant as it takes up the whole pavement!

The strawberry tower was mainly meringue!

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Love this!!

All these things are true and still I adore this place. Well, the 6e version, which I believe is the original?

When I first arrived in Paris, my Parisian visa-hosts took me there, billing it as a place 'real Parisians go.' This was back in 2003 before it had expanded so much (I think there was just the other one off Champs Elysée at that point, could be wrong). I fell in love with it right away even with all its eccentricities. I advise you try the one in 6e if you haven't. It's a perfect perch on a nice afternoon. Go toward the end of the service and there will be little to no queue, you'll be the pleasant company and allowed to take your time while the servers clean up from lunch. There's also a wine list!! Maybe they didn't want you to take more time, but it's REALLY GOOD. Insist, then you will be the insider, and they will treat you well. Many a Prada shoe or celebrity spotted at the 6e establishment as well. Bring sunglasses.

Time to go back to Paris... :)

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Thanks so much Kate! And for these tips! I did actually really enjoy it and would go again (I have, since this trip!) - but next time I'm going to follow these tips to the letter :-)

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It’s so great to read about a first encounter here. Sounds like you did a lot during your trip!

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We never make reservations and never wait in lines, so we’ve been forced to develop unusual tactics for the popular places we sometimes go. It sounds like the real selling point here is the sauce, because otherwise Paris has many great steak restaurants—or so we’ve gathered (we tend to save our steak appetites for Bruxelles). A great sauce could make us break all our eating-out rules. And there should be a law against more than one cover per table per night.

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It is the sauce! They wouldn't tell me the ingredients as apparently it's a secret and their 'special sauce'

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We might write a stack about sauces at some point. It's such an interesting travel/foodie/job topic. We'd never dream of ordering a sauce on an American steak, but in Europe, I'm a confirmed Béarnaise, and she's a Poivre Vert Creme. And you can instantly judge a place by its sauce--whether they make or buy it, and if they do make it, whether they give a damn about their cuisine. I've never talked to an actual Saucier, but they must have an interesting perspective.

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Oh you're right that would be super interesting! I would definitely read this.

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It's a tad different at the NYC place. Never a line. Food is good. Best frites in the City, actually. Enjoyed reading your piece!

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Thanks Julie! I didn't know they had one in New York - that's going on the list for when I visit!

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We’ve all been there (if not literally to that restaurant, then somewhere offering a similar experience).Why?

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I think it must be the buzz the queue creates, but I'm all for just having a booking system!

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