I really enjoyed the honesty of this. I visited Morocco 20 years ago and was shock-and-awed as well. I went there on something of a whim after backpacking much of Europe, thinking I had figured out the whole solo travel thing. Then I found myself in a very different place and had to go into defensive mode quite often. There was always a sense of being a target for those trying to extract money from me, which is disheartening, but I understand the reality of the economics behind it.
However I also did meet some very kind and helpful people, and had some experiences I'll never forget, such as the medina at Fez. I learned that hiring the occasional official guide was a good idea in Morocco, because they keep the others away and you can actually see some things. Hope to read more about this trip.
Thanks so much for this comment Gary! I completely agree with your experience and echo it. I'd also done lots of solo travelling in Europe and expected this to be similar, how wrong was I! But you're right - some of the experiences were brilliant, and official guides are the way to go.
I love the widening perspective in this piece—the billowing of smoke as you step back to observe the accordion of crowds gathering, dispersing, gathering. I feel like I’m there.
Oh Tom, you capture the spirit and chaos of Jemaa el Fnaa so well. The first time I visited was when our group was being led to our riad through the square after dark. Felt like I was either tripping on acid or in a Fellini film — incredibly exciting and terrifying at the same time. Eating there later at one of the smoking restos was chaotic and thrilling too. The henna ladies were fierce and we'd been told not to engage, same with the snake charmers. When I took a photo I was acosted for some payment, but somehow I snaked my way out of it with just a murderous glare.
What do the Moroccans say about where their country is? It seems to me that saying they aren't is like saying North America is just America. And great vivid writing!
Thanks Michael! I think you're completely right, and I think saying 'it's not really Africa' is a very western thing to say. I don't think this debate had even occurred to the Moroccans I talked to.
Loved this--it's been many years since I've been to Marrakesh, but this took me right back! There is a similar debate about whether Egypt is part of the Middle East or Africa. I still don't know the answer after 2 years of living there, lol.
I really enjoyed the honesty of this. I visited Morocco 20 years ago and was shock-and-awed as well. I went there on something of a whim after backpacking much of Europe, thinking I had figured out the whole solo travel thing. Then I found myself in a very different place and had to go into defensive mode quite often. There was always a sense of being a target for those trying to extract money from me, which is disheartening, but I understand the reality of the economics behind it.
However I also did meet some very kind and helpful people, and had some experiences I'll never forget, such as the medina at Fez. I learned that hiring the occasional official guide was a good idea in Morocco, because they keep the others away and you can actually see some things. Hope to read more about this trip.
Thanks so much for this comment Gary! I completely agree with your experience and echo it. I'd also done lots of solo travelling in Europe and expected this to be similar, how wrong was I! But you're right - some of the experiences were brilliant, and official guides are the way to go.
Lots more Morocco content to come!
Great descriptions of Marrakesh! It was a wild ride for me, too.
Thanks so much Claire!
I love the widening perspective in this piece—the billowing of smoke as you step back to observe the accordion of crowds gathering, dispersing, gathering. I feel like I’m there.
Thank you so much Holly! What a lovely comment.
Oh Tom, you capture the spirit and chaos of Jemaa el Fnaa so well. The first time I visited was when our group was being led to our riad through the square after dark. Felt like I was either tripping on acid or in a Fellini film — incredibly exciting and terrifying at the same time. Eating there later at one of the smoking restos was chaotic and thrilling too. The henna ladies were fierce and we'd been told not to engage, same with the snake charmers. When I took a photo I was acosted for some payment, but somehow I snaked my way out of it with just a murderous glare.
Thanks Jan! Incredibly exciting and terrifying at the same time is the perfect way to sum it up.
Great writing, this really resonated with me. Visiting Marrakesh for me was a fascinating, yet intense experience.
Thank you! Fascinating and intense sums it up for me too!
We can totally relate, Tom. Though we ended up loving Marrakesh, it took a rollercoaster of emotions to get there. Apropos:
https://open.substack.com/pub/marcoandsabrina/p/rollercoaster-in-the-red-city?r=10ijux&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web
Oh thanks for sharing this I'll check it out! Yeah - I did like it by the end, but on night one I certainly wasn't sure.
What do the Moroccans say about where their country is? It seems to me that saying they aren't is like saying North America is just America. And great vivid writing!
Thanks Michael! I think you're completely right, and I think saying 'it's not really Africa' is a very western thing to say. I don't think this debate had even occurred to the Moroccans I talked to.
Wow, sounds intense. Also, love the way you’ve written this one — fits Marrakesh perfectly
Thank you! Very intense, but do recommend it as a country if you want that.
Loved this--it's been many years since I've been to Marrakesh, but this took me right back! There is a similar debate about whether Egypt is part of the Middle East or Africa. I still don't know the answer after 2 years of living there, lol.
Thanks so much Sam! Yeah, I'm not sure I figured it out for Morocco!
I didn't like Marrakesh, and I think it doesn't represent Morocco, I preferred other cities like Fes, Essaouira or Agadir.