Speedy Boarding with Jan Cornall
Iran, Bhutan, and tiger's eye with the author of Writer's Journey
Welcome back to Speedy Boarding, a bi-weekly series on Not That You Asked that is great news for those of you who are getting sick of me. That’s because it’s a series where I ask some of my favourite writers on Substack eight quick-ish questions about travel. So, the vast majority of the words you’re about to read weren’t written by me but by someone else.
This week the questions are being answered by
of . Writer/performer Jan Cornall lives in Sydney Australia. She first went travelling in the 70s to the US, Central America, UK and Europe and didn’t come home for 4 years. For the last twenty years she has led creative journeys for writers and artists to Bali, Fiji, Vietnam, Cambodia, Burma, Laos, Bhutan, Nepal, Tibet, Japan, Morocco, Paris and Italy. Jan has been a regular participant at literary festivals in the Asia Pacific region, collaborating with poets, artists and musicians, and has attended writer’s residencies in Istanbul, Indonesia, Morocco, Iran and Australia.Right, let’s get to the questions.
Where is the best place you’ve ever been and why?
Oh this question is so hard, there are so many ‘best’ places. Today it’s Bhutan, I’ve only been twice and loved it each time. The country is steeped in Tibetan Buddhism, which I have a great interest in. Many of the great Tibetan masters lived and studied there and people old and young practice its tenets on a daily basis. I’d love to go back and spend a month in the eastern part of the country exploring Bhumtang’s monasteries and temples, meditating and writing.
Tibet is on a par with Bhutan for the same reasons, but the ubiquitous Chinese presence and the stresses Tibetans face as an oppressed people in their own country make for uneasy travelling. In Bhutan you can explore the magnificent monasteries and ancient fortresses (Dzongs), remote temples, wild rivers, forests and steppes, eat chili stew and fermented cheese and feast on buckwheat pancakes. Life for the Bhutanese is not always easy but their commitment to gross national happiness is definitely strong.
Where is the place you most want to visit?
We need to add ‘at the moment’ to this question as it changes all the time, but I would love to visit Prague, I’ve heard it’s a magical city and they have an annual tea festival there that I’ve always wanted to attend.
Who's your dream travel companion?
Mmmm this is tricky. I tend to do most of my travelling alone or leading group tours. I usually add my own trips on before and after the tours as I love the independence of solo travel. But if I had to choose a companion they would be flexible, adaptable, adventurous, relaxed, have a good sense of humour, be able to travel light and be well cashed up, willing to contribute to a luxury stay every so often.
Great news! I'm going to buy you a hat. The catch is that you have to wear this hat on every future travel trip at all times. What kind of hat would you like?
That’s easy, it’s a baker boy hat that you will see me wearing in many of my travel pics. I’ve had a few favourite BBs including my black and white hounds-tooth, but sadly they all eventually get left behind on a taxi, train, tuk-tuk or bus. Lately I’ve been wearing bucket hats bought in Japan. They are easy to stuff in a bag, give good protection from the sun and have a kind of traveller's chic.
Where is the place you never want to go back to?
This is hard as the places that come up may not necessarily be bad, it’s more about what happened there that leaves a bad taste. Like when my girlfriend and I travelled to Mexico City in 1974. It was incredibly polluted, men on the street ogled and hissed at us, and when I asked a policeman for directions he grabbed my breasts. We got out of there as fast as we could and headed south to Oaxaca, which thankfully was completely different. Stayed for a month before heading down to Guatemala, another memorable destination! I’ve recently seen documentaries on Mexico City and it looks fabulous. So, never say never!
You've been given a million pounds to live your best life in one destination for a year. The problem is - you're trapped there and can't leave for the year. Where would you go?
I would go back to Iran in a flash. I did a writer’s residency there in 2019 and it is, hands down, the most interesting country I have ever visited. Iranian hospitality is legendary, everyone you meet invites you home to eat, the food is out of this world, every day there are new experiences, new things to learn about ancient history, architecture, art, poetry, literature, craft, philosophy. Iranian people in general, are warm, sophisticated, intelligent, cosmopolitan, well educated, open-minded. Each one I met gave me their card and said if you need anything, call any time of day or night. And they love to picnic! The article I wrote about this on Medium is my most popular article.
How do you decide where to visit next?
My next destination pops into consciousness either through word of mouth or in some other serendipitous manner, like a festival or event I want to attend. Often it’s a personal recommendation of just one sentence, no detail, but delivered in with such emphasis that I respond. Like when a friend once said: “You must visit Luang Prabang!” (Laos). She might have added, “it’s the best place I’ve ever been” or not. Just the way she said it was enough coaxing for me. Like another friend who said “Yogyakarta (Indonesia) is my most favourite city in the world.” That’s all it took. Within months I found myself there and in both cases have to say I totally agree.
And then there’s the Seven Wonders of the World to tick off. I’ve seen a few but not all the so-called traditional sites. Mine so far are: the Great Wall of China, the Colosseum in Rome, the Taj Mahal in India, the Potala Palace in Tibet, Angkor Wat in Laos, Tiger's Nest Temple, Bhutan, the Plain of Bagan, Myanmar, The Eiffel Tower in Paris, The Mekong River in Cambodia. Clearly there’s many more than just seven!
And finally, what's the one thing you never leave home without when travelling?
It’s a little piece of tiger's eye that nestles in my in cross shoulder bag next to my passport. I carry it for protection, safe travels, good luck, good health and so on. Writing this reminds me to check my bag. Now I’m even wondering if I had it with me last year in India when I picked up chikungunya virus from a pesky mosquito bite— not a souvenir you want to bring back from your travels! Just checked, and yes, tiger’s eye definitely missing, I’m off this morning to the local crystal shop to get me a new one!
A huge thanks to Jan for agreeing to be part of Speedy Boarding. If you liked this post please do consider becoming a free or paid subscriber to Not That You Asked. Paid subscribers get an extra travel diaries each month. If £3.99 is a bit steep in this economy there’s a 75% off for the first year sale on at the moment.
The next Speedy Boarding will drop on the 15th of August!
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Well, Bhutan has now risen higher on my very long list of places I must go. Iran, too, though it’s long been there. I loved this reminder of what an incredible place it was/is. I’ve only seen it through literature and the eyes of friends who grew up there. Glad you were able to go during an open window when it was safer to visit than it is now. And wishing for the people of Iran for things to change soon.
Thanks for this, Jan and Tom!
I’m hesitant to travel to Iran now with all the tension, but I’d love to go there when possible again. Thanks for these inspiring answers!